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monté dans le droit fil

English translation: cut on/aligned with the straight grain

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GLOSSARY ENTRY (DERIVED FROM QUESTION BELOW)

French term or phrase:	monté dans le droit fil
English translation:	cut on/aligned with the straight grain
Entered by:	Clare Hogg

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15:33 Jan 21, 2012

French to English translations [PRO]
Textiles / Clothing / Fashion / Luxury clothing

French term or phrase: monté dans le droit fil

I am translating a text about the construction of the iconic Chanel tweed jacket. Not quite sure how to translate this dress-making term (which is clearly related to the garment's straight style) and Google only leads me to this same article online! Thanks for any suggestions.

Here's the whole sentence:

Pour gagner en souplesse tout en gardant le maintien, le devant de la veste est **monté dans le droit fil**, sans pinces poitrine.

Clare Hogg KudoZ activity Questions: 76 (4 open) (5 closed without grading) Answers: 54 Spain
Local time: 02:41

cut on/aligned with the straight grain

Explanation:
The straight grain is used for the jacket length

so, arrows on pattern showing direction of cut are aligned with the straight grain of fabric.

the straight grain has more give or stretch (and also more shrinkage is possible) so by cutting this way the garment drapes/hangs and holds its shape better

these links shows grains:

http://www.textiletraditions.com/resources/fabric.htm

www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3745/bias-101

6 Nov 2008 – Three steps to change straight of grain to bias ... But by choosing a stable fabric and a simple pattern (a combination I call ... Choose a sleeveless top, or one with a cap or extended sleeve, drop sleeve, or classic set-in sleeve.

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Note added at 11 hrs (2012-01-22 02:43:16 GMT)
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pp 182-185 for information on Chanel jacket

books.google.co.uk/books?isbn=1561584975...Claire B. Shaeffer - 2001 - Crafts & Hobbies - 217 pages

On one Chanel jacket I examined, the chain was positioned at the top of the hem ... To make a plaited braid, cut six to twelve strands of yarn at least three times ...

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Note added at 21 hrs (2012-01-22 13:04:57 GMT)
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oops! SJLD is right of course I actually meant to say the opposite as said in the first link I gave

www.textiletraditions.com/resources/fabric.htm

It is best to cut borders and sashings on the Straight of Grain for best accuracy due to minimized stretch. Garments are cut so that the length of the garment (such ...

cranstonvillage.com/interest/intFeatDetailCol.aspx?id=3789

The stretch needs to be across the width of the body. So with these fabrics, use a traditional layout and do not substitute the cross-grain for the straight-of-grain.

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Note added at 21 hrs (2012-01-22 13:19:08 GMT)
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as for "monté"

I'd suggest if this is the pattern stage then "Lay out pattern with grainline arrows aligned with the fabric straght grain (i.e the length of fabric)

or else just Cut on the straight grain

http://cranstonvillage.com/interest/intFeatDetailCol.aspx?id...

Understanding grain line markings on pattern pieces. Part of the pattern development process is determining the grain line for each pattern piece. The grain line affects how the garment will hang. So if you want to produce a garment that hangs and functions similar to the garment depicted and described on the pattern envelope, it’s important to use the grain line that’s provided on the pattern pieces (see Photo #1). It is customary that the grain line arrow is placed on the length-of-grain (parallel to the selvage).

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Note added at 8 days (2012-01-29 17:34:00 GMT) Post-grading
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glad to have helped!

Selected response from:

gallagy2
Ireland

Grading comment

Thanks for all the references and help - much appreciated!
4 KudoZ points were awarded for this answer

Summary of answers provided

cut on/aligned with the straight grain

gallagy2

3 +1

set on straight grain /on the straight of grain

pooja_chic

2 -1

line

Susanne Goepper

Discussion entries: 2

Answers

40 mins confidence:

peer agreement (net): -1

line

Explanation:
regarder le site carmeline - elle explique le droit fil mais je ne suis pas une spécialiste dans ce domaine - j'espère vous trouvez quelqu'un d'autre à demander - bonne chance

Reference: http://carmeline.unblog.fr/

Susanne Goepper
Local time: 02:41
Native speaker of:

German

1 hr confidence:

peer agreement (net): +1

set on straight grain /on the straight of grain

Explanation:
The jacket set on straight grain or the jacket on the straight of grain
http://www.larousse.com/en/dictionnaires/francais-anglais/dr...
http://www.scribd.com/doc/73213404/4102-Jacket-Print-at-Home
http://trade.indiamart.com/search.mp?search=leathers jackets...
http://janssewingroom.wordpress.com/
**Another change that Vogue made to the pattern was to put some of the pieces on the straight of grain and some on the bias. The Koos pattern has each center back on the bias. I’m not sure why Vogue would make that change, since you would want the back on the bias for the drape effect.

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Note added at 2 hrs (2012-01-21 17:36:20 GMT)
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http://www.simplicity.com/t-sewing-techniques.aspx#glossary
Under garment details:
Cut a self fabric strip for patch on straight grain, measuring 2" (5cm) wide and 1" (2.5cm) longer than the measurement of the buttonhole. Mark a center line along the length of the strip. With RIGHT sides together, baste center of strip along buttonhole marking, extending ends 1/2" (1.3cm) beyond end markings.

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Note added at 2 hrs (2012-01-21 17:45:33 GMT)
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http://www.scribd.com/doc/47826857/Fancy-Pillowcase-Tutorial

pooja_chic
Local time: 06:11
Works in field
Native speaker of:

English
PRO pts in category: 16

10 hrs confidence:

cut on/aligned with the straight grain

gallagy2
Ireland
Native speaker of:

English
PRO pts in category: 44

Grading comment

Thanks for all the references and help - much appreciated!

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monté dans le droit fil

English translation: cut on/aligned with the straight grain

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English translation: cut on/aligned with the straight grain

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KudoZ™ translation helpThe KudoZ network provides a framework for translators and others to assist each other with translations or explanations of terms and short phrases.

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