Source text - Chinese Preserving the fine art of bespoke menswear. Savile Row style, of course
Department stores and designer boutiques offer an unending variety of fine menswear. The upside is instant gratification, available from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. So why spend 10 times more at places like Anderson & Sheppard, which has its roots on London’s ‘bespoke mile’ — Savile Row? There are many who argue that a dark suit looks pretty much like any other dark suit. Yet, those in the know, and those who do wear bespoke tailored suits, will swear by them and would never consider being seen in anything else.
So what’s the secret? A bespoke suit hand made in the Savile Row tradition is the male equivalent of haute couture for the ladies. Each is 100 per cent customised to fit the wearer’s body size, silhouette, height and posture. Accurate measurements are the crucial first step, taking into account the many individual nuances of a person’s body — for example, the slightest differences in the slopes of the two shoulders; in the bulk and length of the biceps, arms and legs; and in the vagaries of one’s torso. At least 27 measurements are taken and a minimum of 50 man hours go into each suit, which usually requires two to four weeks to complete.
A century ago, no one got anywhere in Savile Row without an introduction from a tailor’s friend or an existing customer. These being somewhat more egalitarian and challenging times, though, Anderson & Sheppard has opened its doors to walk-in clients (due to an expired lease, the firm moved to Old Burlington Street, right beside Savile Row, in 2005). Each visitor is assigned a personal tailor, who will advise and guide the client through the surprising variety of options available for a bespoke suit, including the selection of fabric samples and designs.
And there are more decisions to make — a single or double lapel, a waistcoat, vest, button shapes and sizes, crests, monograms, number and shapes of inside pockets — even the exact jacket length. How about a cravat, a matching bow tie, and perhaps a lining of wildly exuberant patterns that give a jacket that flash of colour, albeit one that is not seen when worn? And what about shirts?
It may be this minute and meticulous measurement and expertise in details that led former Gucci creative director Tom Ford, who doubtlessly knows a stitch or two about well-made apparel, to hail Anderson & Sheppard as “the best tailor in the world”. But the company also claims fame on two other fronts. Says current owner Anda Rowland: “Our distinctive house style is softer and less constructed than our neighbours’, making our suits as comfortable as they are elegant. This style, acclaimed in the annals of fashion as the ‘English drape’, has graced the frames of distinguished gentlemen the world over.”
The English drape is the enduring legacy of tailor Frederick Scholte who, in the early 20th century, liberated gentlemen from the constraints of military suits and court dress, the way Coco Chanel managed to do decades later for women. In 1919, Scholte attracted the attention of the dandy Prince of Wales, future Duke of Windsor, and launched a revolution that made it permissible and desirable to wear soft suits instead of the socially prescribed morning and evening coats of Edwardian times. Scholte passed his skill on to Per Anderson, who partnered with Sidney Horatio Sheppard and established Anderson & Sheppard.
Anderson & Sheppard is different in another way — it is the only Savile Row firm to remain purely a bespoke operation, with all garments handmade in England. It has no franchises or ready-to-wear outlets, so you will never find a foreign branch. While no suit lasts forever, an Anderson & Sheppard bespoke garment is kept and used by its owner for decades. When Prince Charles married Camilla Parker-Bowles in 2005, he wore a morning suit made for him by Anderson & Sheppard 13 years earlier.
Declares managing director John Hitchcock: “A 10-year-old suit by us is considered new. Our cutters and tailors are only too happy to make alterations so their forebears’ work can be enjoyed by another generation.” Indeed, it is not uncommon for a father to hand down his Anderson & Sheppard suit to his son, provided the size difference is not too extreme.
All these translate to customer loyalty, but perhaps there is one additional touch that Anderson & Sheppard has perfected. In his first visit to the shop, photographer Bruce Webber remarked, “For some odd reason, the staff understood me more than any of my psychiatrists.”
Tailor-made therapy, anyone?
Translation - English 谁是定制男装至臻工艺的传承者？——萨维尔街风格当仁不让。
所有这些成就了顾客对Anderson & Sheppard的忠诚。然而， Anderson & Sheppard可能在另外一点上更胜一筹。摄影师布鲁斯•韦伯第一次光顾这家店时，不禁叹道，“真是奇怪，这里的店员比我的精神病医生还要了解我。”
English to Chinese: Hustle Sweet Love
Source text - English She finished the last of the champagne in the bottom of her glass, studying her reflection in the bar mirror behind the lighted liquor bottles. She had to admit the dress was really awful, but she'd gotten used to wearing crazy, shocking clothes, because of her basic, hard-to-hide All-American Girl image. Lacy studied her hair. The dark-blond curls springing out from her face in wanton, teased, high-fashion were too much, she thought morosely. It was going to take her a full hour to wash out the hair spray and setting gel. Nobody appreciated all the trouble that went into professional modeling; it would take another hour to cream her face, because her skin had a tendency to acne when exposed to the West's hard water. It would be midnight, even as tired as she was, before she could finally creep into bed. Thankfully, the show moved on to Scottsdale, Arizona, then New York and oh, glory--her job on Fad magazine! She was really going to be a writer, she thought, mentally pinching herself to be sure it was true.
Whoever he was, he was tall. So tall that Lacy, five feet nine and tall even sitting down, had to look up. Six feet four or more, her mind registered. Dark hair expensively styled--at least a forty-dollar haircut--framed a taut, authoritative, good-looking face with a strong jaw, high cheekbones and a determined slash of a hard mouth. And what a body! Her eyes passed up and down it quickly, noting that he was not only tall but wide. The last time Lacy had seen a physique like that was at the circus. The broad-shouldered V that tapered to hard, slim hips and long, muscled legs belonged to a circus aerialist--big chest, big biceps and forearms, strong, tough-looking hands.
Translation - Chinese 吧台里的酒瓶闪烁着光芒，瓶子后边是一面镜子。她喝光了杯底的最后一点香槟，研究起自己在镜中的样子。她不得不承认，这条裙子实在是太张扬了，但她早就习惯了穿一些狂野、引人瞩目的衣服。因为她生有一副“全美女郎”的模样，藏也藏不住。莱西打量起她的头发。暗金色的发卷肆意地倾泻在脸上，极为挑逗，高调张扬。头发太多了，真是让人郁闷。她要花掉整整一个小时才能洗掉发胶和定型锗哩。没有人知晓职业模特的难处；她还要再用一小时往脸上擦面霜，因为西部的水质较硬，容易让她长粉刺。虽已疲惫不堪，但等到爬上床，也肯定得是半夜了。幸好，演出下一站是亚利桑那州的斯科茨代尔，接着是纽约。哦！天哪！——她得到了《时尚》杂志的工作！她真的要成为一名作家了，想到这里，她就想捏自己一下，确保不是在做梦。
English to Chinese: Maureen Dowd: What Rough Beasts?
Source text - English President Bush's experiments in Afghanistan and Iraq created his own chimeras, by injecting feudal and tribal societies with the cells of democracy, and blending warring factions and sects. Some of the forces unleashed are promising; others are frightening.
In a chilling classified report to Congress last week, Gen. Richard Myers, chairman of the Joint Chiefs, conceded that Iraq and Afghanistan operations had restricted the Pentagon's ability to handle other conflicts.
That's an ominous admission in light of North Korea's rush toward nukes, which was spurred on by the Iraq invasion and North Korea's conviction that, in bargaining with Mr. Bush, real weapons trump imaginary - or chimerical - ones.
The U.S. invasion also spawned a torture scandal, and its own chimeric (alas, not chimerical) blend of former enemies – the Baathists and foreign jihadists - with access to Iraqi weapons caches.
The Republican Party is now a chimera, too, a mutant of old guard Republicans, who want government kept out of our lives, and evangelical Christians, who want government to legislate religion into our lives.
But exploiting God for political ends has set off powerful, scary forces in America: a retreat on teaching evolution, most recently in Kansas; fights over sex education, even in the blue states and blue suburbs of Maryland; a demonizing of gays; and a fear of stem cell research, which could lead to more of a "culture of life" than keeping one vegetative woman hooked up to a feeding tube.
Even as scientists issue rules on chimeras in labs, a spine-tingling he-monster with the power to drag us back into the pre-Darwinian dark ages is slouching around Washington. It's a fire-breathing creature with the head of W., the body of Bill Frist and the serpent tail of Tom DeLay.
Translation - Chinese 布什总统在阿富汗和伊拉克做实验，向封建和部落社会注入民主细胞，混合交战各方和各教派，结果造出了他自己的政治怪兽。部分效果鼓舞人心，另一部分则令人恐惧。
Graduate diploma - Peking University
Years of translation experience: 6. Registered at ProZ.com: Jan 2013.